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June 26 – Paris Lumiers & Pompidou : 2019 France Trip Memories

Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019

June 26 was a day to sight see. A fun video projection place, L’Atelier des Lumières, and a visit to theart museum, the Centre Pompidou.

L’Atelier des Lumières is still running this year even with the pandemic according to their website. They change the shows periodically, and alternate throughout the day. We were there for a Van Gogh display followed by Japanese art. I kept the perspective of my photographs the same to show how dramatic the changing video was. These photographs of course don’t do the experience justice, if you find yourself in Paris this is a must see experience. It is the perfect thing to do when maybe it’s too hot outside, or maybe you’re exhausted from touring and you need a gentle, low energy Paris experience.

Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019

Rejuvenated by the video projection show we made our way to the Pompidou art museum, stopping at the Lil Weasel yarn store along the way.

Lil Weasel Yarn Store, Paris, June 26, 2019
Lil Weasel Yarn Store, Paris, June 26, 2019

Lots of great modern art in the Pompidou. There was a photography show, as well as contemporary modern art, one of the many art museums to add to your list when you visit Paris.

The Centre Pompidou, Paris, France, June 26, 2019
The Centre Pompidou, Paris, France, June 26, 2019

A northern view of Paris from the Pompidou hallways.

The Centre Pompidou, Paris, France, June 26, 2019
The Centre Pompidou, Paris, France, June 26, 2019

This Venus statue is tens of thousands of years old, it really stood out in comparison with the contemporary art on display here.

Ancient Venus Statue at The Centre Pompidou, Paris, France, June 26, 2019
Ancient Venus Statue at The Centre Pompidou, Paris, France, June 26, 2019

After dinner at another great Paris restaurant we walked back to the hotel along the river. Parisians weathered the heatwave by gathering down at the river on this regular week night. Bottles of wine and water were politely piled up at the trashcans, as people watched the sunset. People were sitting on the river bank for the entire length of our walk back.

Heat Wave in Paris, June 26, 2019
Heat Wave in Paris, June 26, 2019

Another lovely sunset back at the hotel bar.

Paris View from the Citizen M Hotel, June 26, 2019
Paris View from the Citizen M Hotel, June 26, 2019

The next day, June 27, is dedicated to a visit to the Louvre museum.

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June 25 – Reims Cathedral : 2019 France Trip Memories

Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

Reims Cathedral’s stained glass is phenomenal for two reasons: 1) beautiful and 2) they replace damaged glass with pieces that reflect the style of the time.

Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

The old and the contemporary glass are situated side by side.

Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

It’s an active church.

Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

A most French kings were coronated at the Reims Cathedral. Jean d’Arc accompanied Charles the VII here.

List of Coronations at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
List of Coronations at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

Marc Chagall designed these windows.

Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

Imi Knoebel designed these.

Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

Another super hot day had a steady stream of tourists visiting the cool cathedral.

Vaulted Ceiling at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Vaulted Ceiling at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

Next door is the Palais du Tau museum, with various items from the ancient French regency.

Palais du Tau, Reims, France, June 25, 2019
Palais du Tau, Reims, France, June 25, 2019

Charlemagne wore this … 1200 years ago.

Charlemagne's Necklace, Palais du Tau, Reims, France, June 25, 2019
Charlemagne’s Necklace, Palais du Tau, Reims, France, June 25, 2019

One last view of the cathedral before we head back to Paris.

Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

Back in Paris we stayed at the Citizen M Hotel which had weird tiny rooms like a cruise ship and large common areas on the second floor for the intent of having everyone socialize.

Citizen M Hotel, Paris, June 25, 2019
Citizen M Hotel, Paris, June 25, 2019
Knitting Machines in Paris, June 25, 2019
Knitting Machines in Paris, June 25, 2019

This French Fashion Institute Knit Workshop was across the way from the hotel but it wasn’t open when we went by. It looked really cool inside.

Knitting Machines in Paris, June 25, 2019
Knitting Machines in Paris, June 25, 2019
Knitting Machines in Paris, June 25, 2019
Knitting Machines in Paris, June 25, 2019

Nice street art near the fashion institute finished out our long travel day.

Street Art, Paris, June 25, 2019
Street Art, Paris, June 25, 2019
View of Paris from the Citizen M Hotel, June 25, 2019
View of Paris from the Citizen M Hotel, June 25, 2019

Next two days we were back touring Paris before the US v France game on the 28th.

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June 24 – USWNT v Spain : 2019 France Trip Memories

Rapinoe v Corredera, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

Monday the 24th was all about the US vs Spain. We switched hotels this morning, did laundry, and then took a walk to find the FIFA Fan Experience area that we missed at the game at Le Havre.

Good news: Free Taittinger champagne at the FIFA Fan Experience in Reims. There was other stuff there too, fun things for the kids, but, like, I only photographed the champagne.

Free Champagne at the FIFA Fan Experience, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Free Champagne at the FIFA Fan Experience, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

We made our way to the arena for the game. It was HOT. Crowded. And a flippin’ blast. I started by saying yes to the patriotic waxy chalk stuff.

I got the chalk stuff this game, USWNT v Spain, June 24, 2019
I got the chalk stuff this game, USWNT v Spain, June 24, 2019

These are all my game photos below in order with captions. I didn’t get each game moment on camera, obviously, and was always making the effort to watch and enjoy as much as taking photos to remember. These are the best of photos I got of the players, crowd, and arena.

Starting Line-up, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Starting Line-up, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

The players take the field.

USWNT Takes the Field, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
USWNT Takes the Field, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

Heath was fouled and Rapinoe got the penalty kick pretty soon into the game.

Rapinoe's first goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe’s first goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

Below are photos of the USWNT players as they ran near me. We had great seats, second row.

Tobin Heath, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Tobin Heath, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Alex Morgan, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Alex Morgan, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rose Lavelle, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rose Lavelle, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Kelley O'Hara, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Kelley O’Hara, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Megan Rapinoe Corner Kick, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Megan Rapinoe Corner Kick, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Crystal Dunn Throws the ball in, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Crystal Dunn Throws the ball in, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Crystal Dunn Throws the ball in, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Crystal Dunn Throws the ball in, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Ever present VAR, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Ever present VAR, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

After a check of the VAR, indeed Rapinoe was to take a penalty kick. The score was 1:1 at this point, I believe.

Rapinoe Penalty Kick, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Penalty Kick, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Penalty Kick, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Penalty Kick, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

This is where Megan Rapinoe did the arms out “are you entertained” stance, I didn’t get a photo of it.

Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Ready to go again, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Ready to go again, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Dunn and Mewis, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Dunn and Mewis, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

Corredera and Rapinoe were covering each other this whole game, Corredera could offer a master class in getting away with fouls.

Rapinoe Fouled by Corredera Again, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Fouled by Corredera Again, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Christen Press, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Christen Press, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

The US fans are called “The Outlaws”.

The Outlaws, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
The Outlaws, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
After the Game, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
After the Game, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Huddle after the game, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Huddle after the game, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

After each game some players would come out and sign autographs for the Outlaws.

Players greet the fans, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Players greet the fans, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

We walked back to our hotel, which was pretty close. Cars on the highway under the bridge honked as the fans (i.e. Aram) waved their flags victoriously.

Our Hotel after the short walk from the stadium, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Our Hotel after the short walk from the stadium, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

The official FIFA highlights reel:

Next, we saw more Reims and then made our way back to Paris for the US v France game.

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June 23 – Reims, Where National Parks Mean Champagne: 2019 France Trip Memories

Stained Glass at Taittinger, June 23, 2019

The winner of Women’s World Cup Group F was going to be playing in Reims, France, so I got hotel reservations near the stadium and then looked to see what the area had to see. I took a chance that the USWNT would win their group and that would be the game we’d be seeing here (spoiler: it was). First, tho, a look at the map showed me that this portion of the trip would be all France National Park type stuff. That’s cool, I thought, it would be nice to spend sometime in nature away from the hectic cities.

Map of Montagne de Reims National Park, France, June 23, 2019
Map of Montagne de Reims National Park, France, June 23, 2019

Long story short, this National Park is all about the birthplace, continued tradition, craft, and art of champage. Turns out this Montagne de Reims is my favorite National Park anywhere.

Montagne de Reims National Park, France, June 23, 2019
Montagne de Reims National Park, France, June 23, 2019

Found a small tour to take which left from the train station in Reims. First place our guide took us to was the Reims Cathedral.

Reims Cathedral, June 23, 2019
Reims Cathedral, June 23, 2019

Reims is an ancient city known largely for being the place where the French Regency was coronated. For example, in 1429 Jean d’Arc accompanied Charles VII to his coronation at this cathedral.

A person could spend hours looking at the statuary on the outside of the cathedral. The expressions on these four are so familiar and delightful. And the animal downspouts have so much character.

Statuary on Reims Cathedral, June 23, 2019
Statuary on Reims Cathedral, June 23, 2019

After an overview at the cathedral we went directly to Taittinger to learn about champagne. I absolutely loved this graphic in the lobby announcing that Taittinger was the official champagne of the women’s world cup, the shapes, color, focus, energy – everything about this design is perfect. I looked up the designer when I got home: La Boca Agent Pekka.

Taittinger Graphic Design for Women's World Cup, June 23, 2019
Taittinger Graphic Design for Women’s World Cup, June 23, 2019

The Taittinger wine cellars were 55 degrees, which was a treat since it was 95 degrees outside. The people that preferred the heat got to carry blankets on the tour into the chalk cellars.

Taittinger Tour Guide, June 23, 2019
Taittinger Tour Guide, June 23, 2019
Taittinger Cellar, June 23, 2019
Taittinger Cellar, June 23, 2019
Taittinger Tour Group, June 23, 2019
Taittinger Tour Group, June 23, 2019

After the tour we had champagne tasting. I enjoyed both the champagne as well as looking at all the other great label design they had on display.

Taittinger Tasting, June 23, 2019
Taittinger Tasting, June 23, 2019

Here’s my favorite poster at a selfie station.

Selfie Station at Taittinger, June 23, 2019
Selfie Station at Taittinger, June 23, 2019

Next we visited the Moët & Chandon’s chardonnay vineyards. Our guide grew up in the area, and was part of the local teams that picked the grapes during harvest season. He gave us a great tour.

Champagne Tour Guide, June 23, 2019
Champagne Tour Guide, June 23, 2019
Grapes, Montagne de Reims, June 23, 2019
Grapes, Montagne de Reims, June 23, 2019
Aram and I at the Montagne de Reims National Park, France, June 23, 2019
Aram and I at the Montagne de Reims National Park, France, June 23, 2019

After the vineyards our tour guide took us to the village of Hautvillers to see the location where Dom Perignon invented champagne.

Rose in Hautvillers, June 23, 2019
Rose in Hautvillers, June 23, 2019

Dom Perignon’s grave was in the front of the Abbey Saint-Pierre d’Hautvillers, surrounded by statuary of Jean d’Arc and an angel.

A rose bush at the end of the row shows the the health of the grapes. If the rosebush suffers, the grapes will be suffering soon. Something of a “canary in the coalmine” but grapes and roses.

The health of the roses bely the health of the grapes, June 23, 2019
The health of the roses bely the health of the grapes, June 23, 2019

Moët & Chandon has the Dom Perignon brand. There were more champagne houses on this street, our guide took us to the two. I’d have to say I enjoyed the taste and brand of Taittinger more than the Moët, but the entire experience of the tour was wonderful. If you ever find yourself in Paris definitely do a day trip to these and similar champagne houses, don’t think twice about it. Just go.

Statue of Dom Perignon, June 23, 2019
Statue of Dom Perignon, June 23, 2019

Back in the city of Reims after the champagne tour we took a walk to find a restaurant for dinner with the current soccer game on, and voila, the USWNT was in town for the game vs Spain the next day.

The USWNT Bus, Reims, France, June 23, 2019
The USWNT Bus, Reims, France, June 23, 2019

Next, USWNT v Spain 95 degree game day.

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June 22 – The Drive from Le Havre to Reims : 2019 France Trip Memories

Falaise d'Aval, Étretat, France, June 22, 2019

After checking out of our hotel we started our journey to Reims, with a stop at Les Jardins Suspendus right in Le Havre overlooking the harbor. This first photo below is the view from the gardens of a cruise ship, the container art, and the cathedral.

Cruise Ship and the Cathedral in Le Havre, June 22, 2019
Cruise Ship and the Cathedral in Le Havre, June 22, 2019

I took so many photos at the gardens, here’s one so you can get the idea. The greenhouses were full of every kind of plant you can think of from all over the world. And there was a really cool hedge-maze at the entrance which I didn’t get a photograph of.

Plants at Les Jardins Suspendus, Le Havre, June 22, 2019
Plants at Les Jardins Suspendus, Le Havre, June 22, 2019

The gardens are “suspended” because they are high above the city in a space that was previously a fort. They turned some of the closed up passageways into modern murals.

A break for tea and yogurt, this one sticks in my mind for some reason as well.

Tea and Yogurt Break at Les Jardins Suspendus, Le Havre, June 22, 2019
Tea and Yogurt Break at Les Jardins Suspendus, Le Havre, June 22, 2019

The rose garden area was my favorite part, they had so many different varieties.

After the garden experience we drove north up the coast from Le Havre with an eye out for some sort of beach turn off or scenic area. Lots of groups of families and friends having picnics, jet skiing, paddle boarding, etc in this rocky beach area at what I think was called, “Cap d’Antifer”.

Beach Area Near Cap d'Antifer, France, June 22, 2019
Beach Area Near Cap d’Antifer, France, June 22, 2019

Our goal was to see Les Jardins d’Etretat, the next city up the coast from Le Havre. In this photo below we are looking across at what I think is a golf course on the chalky cliffs. I’m pretty sure the cliff we were standing on was equally as dramatic from the other perspective. Etretat seemed like another resort town, the sort of place you go for weddings and vacation if you lived in Paris I imagine. It was beautiful.

Étretat, France, June 22, 2019
Étretat, France, June 22, 2019

We found a parking spot on the street down below the gardens and we walked up. Evidently there’s a tourist train ride that can bring you up the hill.

Tourist Mini-Train, Étretat, France, June 22, 2019
Tourist Mini-Train, Étretat, France, June 22, 2019

Les Jardins d’Etretat were as much a sculpture park as an arboretum. These few photos below show my favorite art pieces there.

Hey, look, there is a second walkway up from the city directly. We did this all on our own, and it appears we missed these proper channels of approach.

The Walk up from Town, Étretat, France, June 22, 2019
The Walk up from Town, Étretat, France, June 22, 2019

Back in the car for the long haul drive to Reims, which is a bit north east of Paris. Le Havre is west of Paris on the coast obviously, so it ended up being a slight marathon drive to get to our hotel in Reims that night. The drive was mostly farmland with the occasional village.

Next was a full day touring Reims and the surrounding countryside, June 23. The next game day was the 24th.

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June 21 – Le Havre : 2019 France Trip Memories

Boy Climbs Outside of Bibliotheque Oscar Niemeyer, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

Slept late the morning after the USWNT v Sweden game to catch up and get into the time zone at last. We drove right to the shore knowing nothing about Le Havre, figured the ocean would be the main attraction in “The Harbor” city. Found a parking spot and started walking to see what we’d see.

Le Havre Here We Come, June 21, 2019
Le Havre Here We Come, June 21, 2019

Of course this is France so as soon as you arrive at the water front you see that Monet painted a scene here.

Monet's Garden at Sainte-Adresse Was Painted Here
Monet’s Garden at Sainte-Adresse Was Painted Here

This Restaurant le Clapotis was at the very end of the walkway, near where we parked… we ate here three times I think. The women that served us was such a nice soul, willing to put up with our lousy French, the food was great, and you could watch the cruise ships and sailboats coming and going. The beach cabanas were opened up here and there, with the locals getting some nice rest and relaxation.

Restaurant le Clapotis, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
We Ate at Restaurant le Clapotis 3 times, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

The Beach at Le Havre had plenty of people watching chairs at the bars, plenty of cabanas. This whole area had an easy older resort feel about it, without being obnoxious in any way.

A Dog at a Waterfront Bar, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
A Dog at a Waterfront Bar, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

A large bright white art installation decorated the beach.

Art Installation on Le Havre Beach, June 21, 2019
Art Installation on Le Havre Beach, June 21, 2019

Lots of boys biking and skating in this fun skate park. I was a bit disappointed that I didn’t see any girls playing in this same space this day. Still tho, cool art. The art installation can be seen in the background.

Cool Skate Park (No Girls Were Skating Tho :-\), Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Cool Skate Park (No Girls Were Skating Tho :-), Le Havre, June 21, 2019

As this was the day after the FIFA game the “Fan Experience” was closed, so we had no idea what this area was about. But seeing this had us keep our eyes open for something similar at the upcoming games.

Not a Game Day So FIFA Fan Experience Was Closed, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Not a Game Day So FIFA Fan Experience Was Closed, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

The city’s “information” center had the FIFA mascot, Lettie, in the window. Evidently the world cup event was making Le Havre a destination again.

Mascot Lettie at the Info Center, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Mascot Lettie at the Info Center, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

I asked the Information Center person what we should see if we could only see ONE thing in Le Havre. She told us to visit the church, Eglise St-Joseph, which was built on the ruins of the previous church that was bombed during WWII.

Eglise St-Joseph, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Eglise St-Joseph, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

The lovely thing about the inside was the stained glass in the large open spire. The woman, Marguerite Huré, that designed the glass considered the position of the sun at different times of the year, and how warm and cool the light shining in would be. From Wikipedia: “Huré organized the colors based on the cardinal directions with the dead wood and red colors on the north side, green and purple to the east, golden shades to the south, and pink and orange shades to the west.” It was a remarkable way to think of the space, I thought. Definitely have a look if you find yourself in Le Havre.

Stained Glass, Eglise St-Joseph, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Stained Glass, Eglise St-Joseph, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

This art installation with a hat tip to Le Havre’s status as a shipping port for France.

Catene de Containers, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Catene de Containers, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

We checked out the art museum in town, as it was hot and we were craving central air.

Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

Since this is France, the art museum was amazing. Small, but amazing. There was a show for the artist Raoul Dufy, his work was so varied, these two below were my favorites though.

Painting by Raoul Dufy, Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Painting by Raoul Dufy, Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Painting by Raoul Dufy, Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Painting by Raoul Dufy, Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

The wall had a large quote from Raoul Dufy from the day before he died.

"I'm going to paint so much more this summer!" Raoul Dufy
“I’m going to paint so much more this summer!” Raoul Dufy

I mean, they had a collection of cows, and even these were fabulous.

Cows, Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Cows, Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

I also enjoyed a selection of more stark black, white, and grey sea-faring paintings of Manet and Boudin.

Manet Painting, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Manet Painting, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Eugene Boudin Painting, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Eugene Boudin Painting, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

After the museum we circled back to the waterfront to walk back to the car. These sailboats were moored just inside the breakwater, so many boats.

Moored Sailboats, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Moored Sailboats, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

At night Le Havre had a music festival for the solstice, in a different part of town. This area seemed to be more about business and fine dining than the shore did. Lots of people were out. Gosh I miss herd immunity (I’m writing this during the pandemic.)

The Bibliotheque Oscar Niemeyer, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
The Bibliotheque Oscar Niemeyer, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

We had one meal in Le Havre down near the music festival, it was the one time someone at a restaurant gave us a hard time for speaking lousy French, it’s funny how that interaction sticks in your head. Especially because then we went out to hear the music the festival had to offer. Everyone, literally every band, sang in English. Here I was thinking we’d get to hear something specifically French. Nope. It was all pop and rock songs in English. I hope that waiter didn’t go listen to any of the music, he’d be pissed.

Fête de la Musique, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Fête de la Musique, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

After a long day, we headed back to the hotel to rest up for our drive touring to the next game location on the next day, June 22.

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June 20 – USWNT v Sweden : 2019 France Trip Memories

Cute little kid at the game, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019

Game Day

There was enough interest in getting fans from Paris out to Le Havre to see the US Women’s Nation team play Sweden that they added another train. They even hauled out these standing cut-outs of soccer people to greet us as we boarded – according to the old French guys that got stuck riding with us: this was a slow slow train. Slow. We didn’t care so long as we got to the game in time… which we did.

The Soccer Train to Le Havre from Paris, June 20, 2019
The Soccer Train to Le Havre from Paris, June 20, 2019

Le Stade Océane appeared through the train window, and like that we were charged up for the game.

Stade Océane, Le Havre, France, June 20, 2019
Stade Océane, Le Havre, France, June 20, 2019

We had great seats again, looking down the goal line at Tobin Heath’s part of the field. USWNT v Sweden is always contentious, this game assured their positions in the first and second places in Group F. Sweden would have had to clobber the USWNT to gain first place since the standings after the US played Thailand and Chile. Even still, a great rivalry in this last game of the Group F stage of women’s world cup play.

Tobin Heath, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019
Tobin Heath, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019

Click here for the US Soccer recap of the game. By the time I got to my seat the US was already up 1:0.

Megan Rapinoe, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019
Megan Rapinoe, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019

Not sure the referee saw this hold.

Did the Refs See this? USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019
Did the Refs See this? USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019

The Swedish fans were coordinated and ready to go.

Swedish Fans Showed Up in Force, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019
Swedish Fans Showed Up in Force, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019

We US fans were a bit more rag-tag, but definitely had spirit.

The stadiums were all decorated by FIFA for the event. I honestly felt “Dare to Shine” was a weak slogan, why couldn’t it just be “Shine”? Why did they have to “Dare to”?

Stade Océane dressed for the occasion, Le Havre, June 20, 2019
Stade Océane dressed for the occasion, Le Havre, June 20, 2019

Megan Rapinoe playing keep-away like she does.

Rapinoe doing her thing, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019
Rapinoe doing her thing, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019

Rose Lavelle was a magician moving the ball down the field. She finally made a score in the final (spoilers!) after one of her runs downfield. But all these games we saw she’d get the ball to the net from the other end of the field and wouldn’t take the shot.

Rose Lavelle and her magic feet, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019
Rose Lavelle and her magic feet, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019

Alyssa Naeher goal kicking.

Alyssa Naeher sending the ball downfield, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019
Alyssa Naeher sending the ball downfield, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019

Crystal Dunn’s a hero, she did an amazing job regaining possession over and over.

Crystal Dunn, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019
Crystal Dunn, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019

Attendance was always reported on the big screen towards the end of the game. Each game had more and more interest.

Attendance at USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019
Attendance at USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019

A wide shot of the field, the blue and wavy architecture of the stadium portrays the harbor status of the city, Le Havre.

Stade Océane, USWNT v Sweden, June 20, 2019
Stade Océane, USWNT v Sweden, June 20, 2019

Handshakes after the game as the audience disperses.

Game Over 2:0, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019
Game Over 2:0, USWNT v Sweden, Le Havre, June 20, 2019

A core part of the USWNT would always huddle like this after a game, after all the hubbub was over.

Post game huddle, USWNT, Le Havre, June 20, 2019
Post game huddle, USWNT, Le Havre, June 20, 2019

With groups of merry US and Swedish fans we walked out, in our case to our rental car to drive back to the hotel. The spirit of the games and the crowds were delightful.

Click through this YouTube video for the official highlights.

The day after this we spent the day touring Le Havre, the most comfortable weather we had all vacation with it’s proximity to the ocean. That’s next.

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June 19 – Scotland v Argentina : 2019 France Trip Memories

Half Time Fun with Lettie, Scotland v Argentina, Paris, June 19, 2019

Didn’t plan for it, but ended up getting front row tickets for the Scotland v Argentina Women’s World Cup Soccer game at Parc des Princes in Paris on June 19, 2019. The two teams were vying for a third place slot in their group to possibly make it to the knock out stage. Long story short, Scotland blew a 3 – 0 lead to end up tied with Argentina 3-3, ultimately neither team making it to the knock out stage.

For us it was a practice run on attending soccer matches in France. This game was at the Parc des Princes in the south western part of Paris, we had tickets reserved for the winner of group F: USA, Sweden, Chile, Thailand versus likely France in a week’s time at this same venue.

Parc Des Princes, Paris, June 19, 2019
Parc Des Princes, Paris, June 19, 2019

Our seats were in the front row looking down the line at the goal. The opening ceremony is always a treat as they always have children participating. Look at all the empty seats! Such a great game tho.

Scotland v Argentina, Parc Des Princes, Paris, June 19, 2019
Scotland v Argentina, Parc Des Princes, Paris, June 19, 2019
Scotland v Argentina, Parc Des Princes, Paris, June 19, 2019
Scotland v Argentina, Parc Des Princes, Paris, June 19, 2019

The first half of the game Scotland dominated 3:0.

Scotland v Argentina, Parc Des Princes, Paris, June 19, 2019
Scotland v Argentina, Parc Des Princes, Paris, June 19, 2019
Scotland v Argentina, Parc Des Princes, Paris, June 19, 2019
Scotland v Argentina, Parc Des Princes, Paris, June 19, 2019

The field gets watered at halftime. Another warm evening.

Half Time, Scotland v Argentina, Paris, June 19, 2019
Half Time, Scotland v Argentina, Paris, June 19, 2019

Lettie, the mascot, plays with the children during the break. They gave a bunch of tickets to school children for this game to fill the seats. A teacher saw us looking lost at the bus station and had us follow her and her group so we could find the venue. Again, a great dry run for the group winner game later on.

Lettie the Mascot at Half Time, Scotland v Argentina, Paris, June 19, 2019
Lettie the Mascot at Half Time, Scotland v Argentina, Paris, June 19, 2019

After halftime Argentina worked their way back from 3:0.

Argentina fights back, Scotland v Argentina, Paris, June 19, 2019
Argentina fights back, Scotland v Argentina, Paris, June 19, 2019

VAR was a huge part of Women’s World Cup 2019 in France. Not sure what FIFA was thinking. So often the games were stopped so referees could review video in the back.

"VAR" takes over the game, Scotland v Agentina, Paris, June 19, 2019
“VAR” takes over the game, Scotland v Agentina, Paris, June 19, 2019

Basically there was a new rule for the game that the goalies had to stand exactly on the line as the penalty kick took place. Here’s an article at CNN about Hope Solo’s take on it.

Ref tells Goalie to stand on the line, new rule for Women's World Cup play, June 19, 2019
Ref tells Goalie to stand on the line, new rule for Women’s World Cup play, June 19, 2019

Argentina missed the first kick, VAR came back saying the goalie stepped off her line so they retook the kick.

Penalty Kick from Argentina, June 19, 2019
Penalty Kick from Argentina, June 19, 2019
Penalty Kick from Argentina, June 19, 2019
Penalty Kick from Argentina, June 19, 2019

The second penalty kick take went in, Argentina tied the game 3-3, ultimately keeping Scotland out of the knockout stage.

Argentina Ties with Scotland 3-3, June 19, 2019
Argentina Ties with Scotland 3-3, June 19, 2019

After the game we exited the stadium right where a Scottish bag piper was leading fans out of the stadium. This is my video of the piper, who, if you think about it, packed his bagpipes for travel from Scotland to Paris to lead a dirge of fans out of the stadium after a heartbreaking day for Scotland.

This video below is the FIFA highlight reel for the game.

Next in our travels was a train ride to Le Havre to see our first USWNT game.

Click to return to the index of 2019 France Trip Memories.

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2019 France Trip Memories

Taittinger 2019 Women's World Cup Label

Index

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June 19 – Paris City Tour : 2019 France Trip Memories

Women's World Cup posters in Paris, June 19, 2019

First full day in France, took a bus tour. We saw and photographed a lot of the famous landmarks during this tour, but I’m not going to focus on the typical guide book stuff if I can help it. The photos I’m sharing here are more about my impressions of the Paris as we worked our way around.

Paris Bus Tour June 19, 2019
Paris Bus Tour June 19, 2019

Didn’t climb the Arc de Triomphe, but these people did.

Tourists on the Arc de Triomphe, June 19, 2019
Tourists on the Arc de Triomphe, June 19, 2019

Photo from a tour bus of marked off photo line for tourists at the Arc de Triomphe. Paris in a nutshell: tourists, photos, traffic, and more tourists.

Traffic Island for Tourists to Take Photos in front of the Arc de Triomphe, June 19, 2019
Traffic Island for Tourists to Take Photos in front of the Arc de Triomphe, June 19, 2019

One of countless rideshare electric scooters in front of the Eiffel Tower. Definitely ended up using these scooters after a while as it was 95 degrees most of the time making walking and the subway a less attractive way to get around the city.

Eiffel Tower, June 19, 2019
Eiffel Tower, June 19, 2019

Read the names across the top – the Eiffel Tower is a monument to science! I had no idea before this bus tour, somehow that’s not usually highlighted when spoken about.

The Eiffel Tower is a monument to science.
The Eiffel Tower is a monument to science.

The statuary on top of the National Academy of Music is quintessential French. Love it.

Architects sign the buildings in Paris, why doesn’t this happen everywhere? The varied decorative features on the buildings were lovely, couldn’t get enough.

This is one of my favorite photos, people are the same everywhere. Can’t have a cherub in a fountain without turning it into an anarchist with a curly mustache.

Anarchist Cherub Fountain, Paris, June 19, 2019
Anarchist Cherub Fountain, Paris, June 19, 2019

This Ferris wheel was in varied states of construction during our time there.

Assembling the Big Wheel at the Place de la Concorde, June 19, 2019
Assembling the Big Wheel at the Place de la Concorde, June 19, 2019

Mosaic street art dotted the city. Here are two of the many we saw.

This “Religieus” cream puff was gluten free. I think about this cream puff a lot, I’m not gonna lie.

This is Gluten Free, Paris, June 19, 2019
This is Gluten Free, Paris, June 19, 2019

Paris streets as seen from the top of a tour bus.

Support for women’s world cup soccer wasn’t ubiquitous, a few Parisians we spoke to didn’t even know it was going on. But graphic art posters like these were spotted here and there around the city.

Women's World Cup posters in Paris, June 19, 2019
Women’s World Cup posters in Paris, June 19, 2019

We found ourselves speaking to some Scottish soccer fans in a pub, turns out the Scotland team was playing Argentina this night right in Paris. We went onto the FIFA website and got ourselves front row tickets. The stadium wasn’t sold out from lukewarm interest in the game, but we went as a trial run to see how attending these games works so we were savvy for the US games. Turns out we had a great time, that’s my next post.

Click to return to the index of 2019 France Trip Memories.