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June 29 – Paris Last Day : 2019 France Trip Memories

Mosaic at Petit Palais, Paris, June 29, 2019

On our last day we visited the Petit Palais Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris. So much art to see all over the city. Taking a day in between art outings really helps you take it all in.

Petit Palais Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris, June 29, 2019
Petit Palais Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris, June 29, 2019

The front entry way was lovely, of course.

Inside Petit Palais Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris, June 29, 2019
Inside Petit Palais Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris, June 29, 2019

The Petit Palais has art from many different periods. This art nouveau portrait is “Woman wearing gloves” by Charles-Alexandre Giron.

Portrait of a Woman, Petit Palais Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris, June 29, 2019

A book of printing samples.

Fabric Samples, Petit Palais Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris, June 29, 2019
Fabric Samples, Petit Palais Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris, June 29, 2019

A delicate brocade wrap.

Pretty Wrap, Petit Palais Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris, June 29, 2019
Pretty Wrap, Petit Palais Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris, June 29, 2019

A behind the scenes painting of a music party.

Painting by Camille Roqueplan, Petit Palais Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris, June 29, 2019
Painting by Camille Roqueplan, Petit Palais Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris, June 29, 2019

The CSO had just played the Symphonie fantastique by Berlioz before my trip. I was delighted to see the original score in the museum.

Portrait of Hector Berlioz, Petit Palais, Paris, June 29, 2019
Portrait of Hector Berlioz, Petit Palais, Paris, June 29, 2019

This one is so peaceful.

"Soir antique" by Alphonse Osbert, at Petit Palais, Paris, June 29, 2019
“Soir antique” by Alphonse Osbert, at Petit Palais, Paris, June 29, 2019

Jean d’Arc est partout.

Jean d'Arc, Petit Palais, Paris, June 29, 2019
Jean d’Arc, Petit Palais, Paris, June 29, 2019

Art Nouveau furniture.

Art Nouveau Furniture, Petit Palais, Paris, June 29, 2019
Art Nouveau Furniture, Petit Palais, Paris, June 29, 2019

Outside after the museum, a view of the Eiffel Tower.

View of the Eiffel Tower from Petit Palais, June 29, 2019
View of the Eiffel Tower from Petit Palais, June 29, 2019

In the evening we got last minute tickets to the Assassin’s Creed concert at the Palais Des Congres in Paris. The symphony played over classic Assassin’s Creed gaming video from the various games. The composer came out for a bow at the end. Such a great way for this gamer musician to wrap up vacation.

Assassin's Creed in Concert, Palais Des Congres, Paris, June 29, 2019
Assassin’s Creed in Concert, Palais Des Congres, Paris, June 29, 2019

Thanks for looking at all this. I’m writing this a year after the fact during the time of the Covid-19 pandemic, like everyone else we are largely quarantined to quell the spread of the virus. Herd immunity was something I didn’t know we were taking for granted. Hopefully soon science will get us to a place where we can gather in sports arenas, museums, and at musical events again. Be well, everyone.

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June 28 – USWNT v France Quarter Final : 2019 France Trip Memories

US and France take the field for the World Cup Quarterfinal in Paris, June 28, 2019

Attending the Quarter Final game of the 2019 Women’s World Cup at Les Parc des Princes in Paris was, no doubt, the highlight of this adventure. The US Women’s National Team had two more games to win after this one, but somehow this one felt like a final with the French team playing in the French capitol to a very excited crowd.

The games were all very family friendly and each game had bunches of cute little soccer fans.

Little French Soccer Fans, USWNT v France, World Cup Quarterfinal in Paris, June 28, 2019
Little French Soccer Fans, USWNT v France, World Cup Quarterfinal in Paris, June 28, 2019

Timbao Percussion Group played outside the stadium and set the pulsating tone for the arriving crowd.

Timbao

We arrived at the stadium early for this one so we didn’t miss a thing.

“The Outlaws” US Soccer fan club arrived en masse.

The US Women’s National Team warmed up before the game in blue.

The starting line up was announced.

A video from the crowd’s point of view before the game. The stadium was intermixed France and US fans in red, white, and blue.

The players marched out in the pregame pageantry.

An image of a woman was unfurled during the opening ceremony.

And play began. USWNT in white and the French team in blue.

Megan Rapinoe got a goal pretty early on. A magical penalty kick, the video is in the highlights video at the end of this post.

We sat behind these two. The French woman on the right was a super polite fan, the US man on the left could hardly stay in his seat he was so excited.

This video shows how sitting behind these two went for the whole game. The French woman is a saint, btw.

The French team keeping the pressure on with this corner kick.

Definitely the most media of the games we saw.

Btw, “Dare to create”, what does that mean? How about just “Create”. Maybe something was lost in translation.

The French had a penalty kick.

Ettie, the FIFA mascot, made her appearance at the half.

A panorama gives a feel for the place. The entire audience was excited for the game, good sportsmanship and camaraderie all around.

Dunn throws in.

A Megan Rapinoe corner kick.

The arena was almost at capacity.

The audience around the broadcaster’s booth.

Both sides had huge support in the stands, the stadium was pulsating.

The barricades and guards were the same setup at all the games.

Red, white, and blue.

The US won 2:1 leaving the French out of the finals.

The US team huddled as the saddened French team found their way together.

There was always this mini huddle after the large team huddle.

And the heartbroken French grouped up for a post mortem.

The fans left the stadium in a festive mood. The crowd showed good sportsmanship over a game well played. I was concerned that people might get nationalistic and combative, but I never saw it happen. People just loved the light-hearted nature of how the Women’s World Cup was played.

The FIFA highlights real:

One more day left, a museum visit and Assassins Creed (yes, the video game) Live in Concert.

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June 27 – The Louvre : 2019 France Trip Memories

Musical Interlude, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

June 27, 2019 was the day before our last soccer game in France. We spent it at the Louvre. These are the pieces and experiences that struck me the most.

Spring term of 2019 I took a pen and ink class at the MFA in Boston. We learned exactly this technique of using standard tan colored paper stock, and lightening and darkening the illustration with black and white ink. I absolutely love working in this style myself, and was pleased to see a whole gallery on the hallway into the main part of the Louvre dedicated to examples of this type of work.

Next we viewed the ancient Egyptian art. These blue hippos are the best, you can see examples of them in Providence, RI, and New York. Of course there’s one here.

Ancient Egyptian Hippo at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Ancient Egyptian Hippo at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

These carved wall reliefs are just beautiful. The Brooklyn Museum has a display showing how the artisans created them, if you’re nearby and curious.

Ancient Egyptian Wall Relief at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Ancient Egyptian Wall Relief at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

Below are snapshots of the same piece from two different angles to see how the carving is recessed in the stone.

The Ancient Persian art was next after the Egyptian galleries. They also use the aqua colored glazing that the Egyptians mastered with those hippos. The three following images were quite large on the wall, these photos don’t show their size properly.

Ancient Persian Tiles at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Ancient Persian Tiles at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Ancient Persian Tiles at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Ancient Persian Tiles at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Ancient Persian Tiles at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Ancient Persian Tiles at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

I wish I got a photo of the information card for these signet rolls below. They are thousands of years old, and I believe they are used for commerce. The Harvard Art Museums have examples of these cylinders. The designs are clever and repeating. Nothing new under the sun, people always needed their brands with eye catching designs, even four plus thousand years ago.

Ancient Signet Rolls at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Ancient Signet Rolls at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

From Egypt to Persia to Europe. The word is 12,000 people visit the Louvre a day in normal times. I believe this 100%.

Louvre Hallway, June 27, 2019
Louvre Hallway, June 27, 2019

We made our way to the lunch café overlooking the center courtyard.

View from Louvre Cafe, June 27, 2019
View from Louvre Cafe, June 27, 2019
View from Louvre Café, June 27, 2019
View from Louvre Café, June 27, 2019

Next, the Mona Lisa.

the heck?

View of People Viewing the Mona Lisa, June 27, 2019
View of People Viewing the Mona Lisa, June 27, 2019

Grab a snapshot as you shuffle by in the crowd to prove you were there.

The Mona Lisa, June 27, 2019
The Mona Lisa, June 27, 2019

Jean d’Arc is everywhere and I love it.

Jean d'Arc by Ingres, at the Louvres, June 27, 2019
Jean d’Arc by Ingres, at the Louvres, June 27, 2019

Arcimboldo depicted the four seasons as people made entirely of food.

Arcimboldo's Seasons of Food at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Arcimboldo’s Seasons of Food at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

Musical instruments!

Musical Interlude, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Musical Interlude, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

I feel Iike this was a dream I had.

Musical Interlude, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Musical Interlude, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

SOoooooo much lovely art.

European Gallery at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
European Gallery at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

Dramatic clothes.

Portrait of a Spanish Woman by Mazo, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Portrait of a Spanish Woman by Mazo, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

Pssst, I like this Da Vinci more than the Mona Lisa.

St Anne by Leonard da Vinci, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
St Anne by Leonard da Vinci, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

This artist’s work felt very modern to me. Though this may be what the Mona Lisa changed about art, adding the fogging.

Painting by Francesco Marmitta at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Painting by Francesco Marmitta at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

This fella had a bad day, but isn’t the artwork amazing?

Temple Presentation by Bergognone, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Temple Presentation by Bergognone, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

Gilded Fra Angelico pieces take my breath away.

again, the heck?

Painting by Sassetta at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Painting by Sassetta at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

I was surprised to see this work below. While working on CSO posters I snarfed the image of these demons for the background of the Angels and Demons concert poster.

Maitre Des Anges Rebelles, St Marin partageant son manteau, circa 1340. At the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Maitre Des Anges Rebelles, St Marin partageant son manteau, circa 1340. At the Louvre, June 27, 2019

Winged victories come in all sizes.

Winged Victory at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Winged Victory at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

Thought this one was lovely.

Portrait by Fragonard, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Portrait by Fragonard, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

Queens have nice fabric.

Louise Tocque Portrait of French Royalty at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
Louise Tocque Portrait of French Royalty at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

Look at the varying levels of interest and boredom in this painting. So great.

The Lecture of the Bible, Jean Baptiste-Greuze, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019
The Lecture of the Bible, Jean Baptiste-Greuze, at the Louvre, June 27, 2019

Right about when we saw this view we realized we were maybe halfway through what was on display and decided we needed to come back and visit Paris for maybe three months and go see all the art. But this day we were done.

The Louvre Courtyard, June 27, 2019
The Louvre Courtyard, June 27, 2019

Next: quarter final game day.

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June 26 – Paris Lumiers & Pompidou : 2019 France Trip Memories

Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019

June 26 was a day to sight see. A fun video projection place, L’Atelier des Lumières, and a visit to theart museum, the Centre Pompidou.

L’Atelier des Lumières is still running this year even with the pandemic according to their website. They change the shows periodically, and alternate throughout the day. We were there for a Van Gogh display followed by Japanese art. I kept the perspective of my photographs the same to show how dramatic the changing video was. These photographs of course don’t do the experience justice, if you find yourself in Paris this is a must see experience. It is the perfect thing to do when maybe it’s too hot outside, or maybe you’re exhausted from touring and you need a gentle, low energy Paris experience.

Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019
Atelier des Lumières, Paris, June 26, 2019

Rejuvenated by the video projection show we made our way to the Pompidou art museum, stopping at the Lil Weasel yarn store along the way.

Lil Weasel Yarn Store, Paris, June 26, 2019
Lil Weasel Yarn Store, Paris, June 26, 2019

Lots of great modern art in the Pompidou. There was a photography show, as well as contemporary modern art, one of the many art museums to add to your list when you visit Paris.

The Centre Pompidou, Paris, France, June 26, 2019
The Centre Pompidou, Paris, France, June 26, 2019

A northern view of Paris from the Pompidou hallways.

The Centre Pompidou, Paris, France, June 26, 2019
The Centre Pompidou, Paris, France, June 26, 2019

This Venus statue is tens of thousands of years old, it really stood out in comparison with the contemporary art on display here.

Ancient Venus Statue at The Centre Pompidou, Paris, France, June 26, 2019
Ancient Venus Statue at The Centre Pompidou, Paris, France, June 26, 2019

After dinner at another great Paris restaurant we walked back to the hotel along the river. Parisians weathered the heatwave by gathering down at the river on this regular week night. Bottles of wine and water were politely piled up at the trashcans, as people watched the sunset. People were sitting on the river bank for the entire length of our walk back.

Heat Wave in Paris, June 26, 2019
Heat Wave in Paris, June 26, 2019

Another lovely sunset back at the hotel bar.

Paris View from the Citizen M Hotel, June 26, 2019
Paris View from the Citizen M Hotel, June 26, 2019

The next day, June 27, is dedicated to a visit to the Louvre museum.

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June 25 – Reims Cathedral : 2019 France Trip Memories

Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

Reims Cathedral’s stained glass is phenomenal for two reasons: 1) beautiful and 2) they replace damaged glass with pieces that reflect the style of the time.

Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

The old and the contemporary glass are situated side by side.

Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

It’s an active church.

Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

A most French kings were coronated at the Reims Cathedral. Jean d’Arc accompanied Charles the VII here.

List of Coronations at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
List of Coronations at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

Marc Chagall designed these windows.

Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

Imi Knoebel designed these.

Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Stained Glass at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

Another super hot day had a steady stream of tourists visiting the cool cathedral.

Vaulted Ceiling at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Vaulted Ceiling at Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

Next door is the Palais du Tau museum, with various items from the ancient French regency.

Palais du Tau, Reims, France, June 25, 2019
Palais du Tau, Reims, France, June 25, 2019

Charlemagne wore this … 1200 years ago.

Charlemagne's Necklace, Palais du Tau, Reims, France, June 25, 2019
Charlemagne’s Necklace, Palais du Tau, Reims, France, June 25, 2019

One last view of the cathedral before we head back to Paris.

Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019
Reims Cathedral, June 25, 2019

Back in Paris we stayed at the Citizen M Hotel which had weird tiny rooms like a cruise ship and large common areas on the second floor for the intent of having everyone socialize.

Citizen M Hotel, Paris, June 25, 2019
Citizen M Hotel, Paris, June 25, 2019
Knitting Machines in Paris, June 25, 2019
Knitting Machines in Paris, June 25, 2019

This French Fashion Institute Knit Workshop was across the way from the hotel but it wasn’t open when we went by. It looked really cool inside.

Knitting Machines in Paris, June 25, 2019
Knitting Machines in Paris, June 25, 2019
Knitting Machines in Paris, June 25, 2019
Knitting Machines in Paris, June 25, 2019

Nice street art near the fashion institute finished out our long travel day.

Street Art, Paris, June 25, 2019
Street Art, Paris, June 25, 2019
View of Paris from the Citizen M Hotel, June 25, 2019
View of Paris from the Citizen M Hotel, June 25, 2019

Next two days we were back touring Paris before the US v France game on the 28th.

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June 24 – USWNT v Spain : 2019 France Trip Memories

Rapinoe v Corredera, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

Monday the 24th was all about the US vs Spain. We switched hotels this morning, did laundry, and then took a walk to find the FIFA Fan Experience area that we missed at the game at Le Havre.

Good news: Free Taittinger champagne at the FIFA Fan Experience in Reims. There was other stuff there too, fun things for the kids, but, like, I only photographed the champagne.

Free Champagne at the FIFA Fan Experience, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Free Champagne at the FIFA Fan Experience, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

We made our way to the arena for the game. It was HOT. Crowded. And a flippin’ blast. I started by saying yes to the patriotic waxy chalk stuff.

I got the chalk stuff this game, USWNT v Spain, June 24, 2019
I got the chalk stuff this game, USWNT v Spain, June 24, 2019

These are all my game photos below in order with captions. I didn’t get each game moment on camera, obviously, and was always making the effort to watch and enjoy as much as taking photos to remember. These are the best of photos I got of the players, crowd, and arena.

Starting Line-up, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Starting Line-up, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

The players take the field.

USWNT Takes the Field, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
USWNT Takes the Field, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

Heath was fouled and Rapinoe got the penalty kick pretty soon into the game.

Rapinoe's first goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe’s first goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

Below are photos of the USWNT players as they ran near me. We had great seats, second row.

Tobin Heath, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Tobin Heath, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Alex Morgan, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Alex Morgan, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rose Lavelle, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rose Lavelle, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Kelley O'Hara, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Kelley O’Hara, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Megan Rapinoe Corner Kick, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Megan Rapinoe Corner Kick, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Crystal Dunn Throws the ball in, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Crystal Dunn Throws the ball in, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Crystal Dunn Throws the ball in, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Crystal Dunn Throws the ball in, USWNT v Spain, Reims, June 24, 2019
Ever present VAR, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Ever present VAR, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

After a check of the VAR, indeed Rapinoe was to take a penalty kick. The score was 1:1 at this point, I believe.

Rapinoe Penalty Kick, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Penalty Kick, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Penalty Kick, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Penalty Kick, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

This is where Megan Rapinoe did the arms out “are you entertained” stance, I didn’t get a photo of it.

Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Goal, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Ready to go again, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Ready to go again, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Dunn and Mewis, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Dunn and Mewis, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

Corredera and Rapinoe were covering each other this whole game, Corredera could offer a master class in getting away with fouls.

Rapinoe Fouled by Corredera Again, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Rapinoe Fouled by Corredera Again, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Christen Press, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Christen Press, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

The US fans are called “The Outlaws”.

The Outlaws, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
The Outlaws, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
After the Game, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
After the Game, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Huddle after the game, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Huddle after the game, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

After each game some players would come out and sign autographs for the Outlaws.

Players greet the fans, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Players greet the fans, USWNT v Spain, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

We walked back to our hotel, which was pretty close. Cars on the highway under the bridge honked as the fans (i.e. Aram) waved their flags victoriously.

Our Hotel after the short walk from the stadium, Reims, France, June 24, 2019
Our Hotel after the short walk from the stadium, Reims, France, June 24, 2019

The official FIFA highlights reel:

Next, we saw more Reims and then made our way back to Paris for the US v France game.

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June 23 – Reims, Where National Parks Mean Champagne: 2019 France Trip Memories

Stained Glass at Taittinger, June 23, 2019

The winner of Women’s World Cup Group F was going to be playing in Reims, France, so I got hotel reservations near the stadium and then looked to see what the area had to see. I took a chance that the USWNT would win their group and that would be the game we’d be seeing here (spoiler: it was). First, tho, a look at the map showed me that this portion of the trip would be all France National Park type stuff. That’s cool, I thought, it would be nice to spend sometime in nature away from the hectic cities.

Map of Montagne de Reims National Park, France, June 23, 2019
Map of Montagne de Reims National Park, France, June 23, 2019

Long story short, this National Park is all about the birthplace, continued tradition, craft, and art of champage. Turns out this Montagne de Reims is my favorite National Park anywhere.

Montagne de Reims National Park, France, June 23, 2019
Montagne de Reims National Park, France, June 23, 2019

Found a small tour to take which left from the train station in Reims. First place our guide took us to was the Reims Cathedral.

Reims Cathedral, June 23, 2019
Reims Cathedral, June 23, 2019

Reims is an ancient city known largely for being the place where the French Regency was coronated. For example, in 1429 Jean d’Arc accompanied Charles VII to his coronation at this cathedral.

A person could spend hours looking at the statuary on the outside of the cathedral. The expressions on these four are so familiar and delightful. And the animal downspouts have so much character.

Statuary on Reims Cathedral, June 23, 2019
Statuary on Reims Cathedral, June 23, 2019

After an overview at the cathedral we went directly to Taittinger to learn about champagne. I absolutely loved this graphic in the lobby announcing that Taittinger was the official champagne of the women’s world cup, the shapes, color, focus, energy – everything about this design is perfect. I looked up the designer when I got home: La Boca Agent Pekka.

Taittinger Graphic Design for Women's World Cup, June 23, 2019
Taittinger Graphic Design for Women’s World Cup, June 23, 2019

The Taittinger wine cellars were 55 degrees, which was a treat since it was 95 degrees outside. The people that preferred the heat got to carry blankets on the tour into the chalk cellars.

Taittinger Tour Guide, June 23, 2019
Taittinger Tour Guide, June 23, 2019
Taittinger Cellar, June 23, 2019
Taittinger Cellar, June 23, 2019
Taittinger Tour Group, June 23, 2019
Taittinger Tour Group, June 23, 2019

After the tour we had champagne tasting. I enjoyed both the champagne as well as looking at all the other great label design they had on display.

Taittinger Tasting, June 23, 2019
Taittinger Tasting, June 23, 2019

Here’s my favorite poster at a selfie station.

Selfie Station at Taittinger, June 23, 2019
Selfie Station at Taittinger, June 23, 2019

Next we visited the Moët & Chandon’s chardonnay vineyards. Our guide grew up in the area, and was part of the local teams that picked the grapes during harvest season. He gave us a great tour.

Champagne Tour Guide, June 23, 2019
Champagne Tour Guide, June 23, 2019
Grapes, Montagne de Reims, June 23, 2019
Grapes, Montagne de Reims, June 23, 2019
Aram and I at the Montagne de Reims National Park, France, June 23, 2019
Aram and I at the Montagne de Reims National Park, France, June 23, 2019

After the vineyards our tour guide took us to the village of Hautvillers to see the location where Dom Perignon invented champagne.

Rose in Hautvillers, June 23, 2019
Rose in Hautvillers, June 23, 2019

Dom Perignon’s grave was in the front of the Abbey Saint-Pierre d’Hautvillers, surrounded by statuary of Jean d’Arc and an angel.

A rose bush at the end of the row shows the the health of the grapes. If the rosebush suffers, the grapes will be suffering soon. Something of a “canary in the coalmine” but grapes and roses.

The health of the roses bely the health of the grapes, June 23, 2019
The health of the roses bely the health of the grapes, June 23, 2019

Moët & Chandon has the Dom Perignon brand. There were more champagne houses on this street, our guide took us to the two. I’d have to say I enjoyed the taste and brand of Taittinger more than the Moët, but the entire experience of the tour was wonderful. If you ever find yourself in Paris definitely do a day trip to these and similar champagne houses, don’t think twice about it. Just go.

Statue of Dom Perignon, June 23, 2019
Statue of Dom Perignon, June 23, 2019

Back in the city of Reims after the champagne tour we took a walk to find a restaurant for dinner with the current soccer game on, and voila, the USWNT was in town for the game vs Spain the next day.

The USWNT Bus, Reims, France, June 23, 2019
The USWNT Bus, Reims, France, June 23, 2019

Next, USWNT v Spain 95 degree game day.

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June 22 – The Drive from Le Havre to Reims : 2019 France Trip Memories

Falaise d'Aval, Étretat, France, June 22, 2019

After checking out of our hotel we started our journey to Reims, with a stop at Les Jardins Suspendus right in Le Havre overlooking the harbor. This first photo below is the view from the gardens of a cruise ship, the container art, and the cathedral.

Cruise Ship and the Cathedral in Le Havre, June 22, 2019
Cruise Ship and the Cathedral in Le Havre, June 22, 2019

I took so many photos at the gardens, here’s one so you can get the idea. The greenhouses were full of every kind of plant you can think of from all over the world. And there was a really cool hedge-maze at the entrance which I didn’t get a photograph of.

Plants at Les Jardins Suspendus, Le Havre, June 22, 2019
Plants at Les Jardins Suspendus, Le Havre, June 22, 2019

The gardens are “suspended” because they are high above the city in a space that was previously a fort. They turned some of the closed up passageways into modern murals.

A break for tea and yogurt, this one sticks in my mind for some reason as well.

Tea and Yogurt Break at Les Jardins Suspendus, Le Havre, June 22, 2019
Tea and Yogurt Break at Les Jardins Suspendus, Le Havre, June 22, 2019

The rose garden area was my favorite part, they had so many different varieties.

After the garden experience we drove north up the coast from Le Havre with an eye out for some sort of beach turn off or scenic area. Lots of groups of families and friends having picnics, jet skiing, paddle boarding, etc in this rocky beach area at what I think was called, “Cap d’Antifer”.

Beach Area Near Cap d'Antifer, France, June 22, 2019
Beach Area Near Cap d’Antifer, France, June 22, 2019

Our goal was to see Les Jardins d’Etretat, the next city up the coast from Le Havre. In this photo below we are looking across at what I think is a golf course on the chalky cliffs. I’m pretty sure the cliff we were standing on was equally as dramatic from the other perspective. Etretat seemed like another resort town, the sort of place you go for weddings and vacation if you lived in Paris I imagine. It was beautiful.

Étretat, France, June 22, 2019
Étretat, France, June 22, 2019

We found a parking spot on the street down below the gardens and we walked up. Evidently there’s a tourist train ride that can bring you up the hill.

Tourist Mini-Train, Étretat, France, June 22, 2019
Tourist Mini-Train, Étretat, France, June 22, 2019

Les Jardins d’Etretat were as much a sculpture park as an arboretum. These few photos below show my favorite art pieces there.

Hey, look, there is a second walkway up from the city directly. We did this all on our own, and it appears we missed these proper channels of approach.

The Walk up from Town, Étretat, France, June 22, 2019
The Walk up from Town, Étretat, France, June 22, 2019

Back in the car for the long haul drive to Reims, which is a bit north east of Paris. Le Havre is west of Paris on the coast obviously, so it ended up being a slight marathon drive to get to our hotel in Reims that night. The drive was mostly farmland with the occasional village.

Next was a full day touring Reims and the surrounding countryside, June 23. The next game day was the 24th.

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June 21 – Le Havre : 2019 France Trip Memories

Boy Climbs Outside of Bibliotheque Oscar Niemeyer, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

Slept late the morning after the USWNT v Sweden game to catch up and get into the time zone at last. We drove right to the shore knowing nothing about Le Havre, figured the ocean would be the main attraction in “The Harbor” city. Found a parking spot and started walking to see what we’d see.

Le Havre Here We Come, June 21, 2019
Le Havre Here We Come, June 21, 2019

Of course this is France so as soon as you arrive at the water front you see that Monet painted a scene here.

Monet's Garden at Sainte-Adresse Was Painted Here
Monet’s Garden at Sainte-Adresse Was Painted Here

This Restaurant le Clapotis was at the very end of the walkway, near where we parked… we ate here three times I think. The women that served us was such a nice soul, willing to put up with our lousy French, the food was great, and you could watch the cruise ships and sailboats coming and going. The beach cabanas were opened up here and there, with the locals getting some nice rest and relaxation.

Restaurant le Clapotis, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
We Ate at Restaurant le Clapotis 3 times, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

The Beach at Le Havre had plenty of people watching chairs at the bars, plenty of cabanas. This whole area had an easy older resort feel about it, without being obnoxious in any way.

A Dog at a Waterfront Bar, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
A Dog at a Waterfront Bar, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

A large bright white art installation decorated the beach.

Art Installation on Le Havre Beach, June 21, 2019
Art Installation on Le Havre Beach, June 21, 2019

Lots of boys biking and skating in this fun skate park. I was a bit disappointed that I didn’t see any girls playing in this same space this day. Still tho, cool art. The art installation can be seen in the background.

Cool Skate Park (No Girls Were Skating Tho :-\), Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Cool Skate Park (No Girls Were Skating Tho :-), Le Havre, June 21, 2019

As this was the day after the FIFA game the “Fan Experience” was closed, so we had no idea what this area was about. But seeing this had us keep our eyes open for something similar at the upcoming games.

Not a Game Day So FIFA Fan Experience Was Closed, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Not a Game Day So FIFA Fan Experience Was Closed, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

The city’s “information” center had the FIFA mascot, Lettie, in the window. Evidently the world cup event was making Le Havre a destination again.

Mascot Lettie at the Info Center, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Mascot Lettie at the Info Center, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

I asked the Information Center person what we should see if we could only see ONE thing in Le Havre. She told us to visit the church, Eglise St-Joseph, which was built on the ruins of the previous church that was bombed during WWII.

Eglise St-Joseph, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Eglise St-Joseph, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

The lovely thing about the inside was the stained glass in the large open spire. The woman, Marguerite Huré, that designed the glass considered the position of the sun at different times of the year, and how warm and cool the light shining in would be. From Wikipedia: “Huré organized the colors based on the cardinal directions with the dead wood and red colors on the north side, green and purple to the east, golden shades to the south, and pink and orange shades to the west.” It was a remarkable way to think of the space, I thought. Definitely have a look if you find yourself in Le Havre.

Stained Glass, Eglise St-Joseph, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Stained Glass, Eglise St-Joseph, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

This art installation with a hat tip to Le Havre’s status as a shipping port for France.

Catene de Containers, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Catene de Containers, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

We checked out the art museum in town, as it was hot and we were craving central air.

Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

Since this is France, the art museum was amazing. Small, but amazing. There was a show for the artist Raoul Dufy, his work was so varied, these two below were my favorites though.

Painting by Raoul Dufy, Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Painting by Raoul Dufy, Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Painting by Raoul Dufy, Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Painting by Raoul Dufy, Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

The wall had a large quote from Raoul Dufy from the day before he died.

"I'm going to paint so much more this summer!" Raoul Dufy
“I’m going to paint so much more this summer!” Raoul Dufy

I mean, they had a collection of cows, and even these were fabulous.

Cows, Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Cows, Musée d’art Moderne André Malraux, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

I also enjoyed a selection of more stark black, white, and grey sea-faring paintings of Manet and Boudin.

Manet Painting, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Manet Painting, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Eugene Boudin Painting, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Eugene Boudin Painting, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

After the museum we circled back to the waterfront to walk back to the car. These sailboats were moored just inside the breakwater, so many boats.

Moored Sailboats, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Moored Sailboats, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

At night Le Havre had a music festival for the solstice, in a different part of town. This area seemed to be more about business and fine dining than the shore did. Lots of people were out. Gosh I miss herd immunity (I’m writing this during the pandemic.)

The Bibliotheque Oscar Niemeyer, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
The Bibliotheque Oscar Niemeyer, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

We had one meal in Le Havre down near the music festival, it was the one time someone at a restaurant gave us a hard time for speaking lousy French, it’s funny how that interaction sticks in your head. Especially because then we went out to hear the music the festival had to offer. Everyone, literally every band, sang in English. Here I was thinking we’d get to hear something specifically French. Nope. It was all pop and rock songs in English. I hope that waiter didn’t go listen to any of the music, he’d be pissed.

Fête de la Musique, Le Havre, June 21, 2019
Fête de la Musique, Le Havre, June 21, 2019

After a long day, we headed back to the hotel to rest up for our drive touring to the next game location on the next day, June 22.

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